Into the Heart of Providence

By Lauren Houlihan

American Lifestyle, 2008 

The sun sets behind the granitecolumns of an historic bank indowntown Providence. A hushed crowd of tens of thousands waits expectantly along the riverbanks.
A sleek black boat silently emerges from beneath a stone bridge and the lead figure, clad in all black, strikes a bronze Asian gong. As the sound echoes over the water, a procession of black boats materializes in the growing dusk and follows in the wake of the rhythmically struck gong.
The constellation of boats assembles in the large stone river basin at the heart of downtown, just below the historic statehouse, quietly circling counter-clockwise, waiting.
As the blue shadows of dusk settle silently over the park, a lone boat arrives from upstream and enters the basin. A figure in the boat holds aloft a blazing torch, filling the air with a warm, engaging light that illuminates the waiting boats, reflecting the sparkles of gold off the dark water. The light-bringer enters the circle and shares the flame with each boat, setting their torches alight. As the fires multiply, the park is slowly filled with light—
ancient, living firelight that flickers on the faces of thousands of witnesses. The air swells with the quiet chords of a growing chorus of sound, and unexpectedly the park is filled with music.
The boats, now bearing flaming torches, circle the basin once more and turn their attention to the ring of firewood pyramids floating just above the river’s surface. The boats solemnly set each bonfire ablaze. The fire catches fitfully at first, but slowly strengthens until the basin is filled with the flames of twenty bonfires, reaching into the sky.
The crowd is mesmerized, hushed in anticipation, and then released by the energy of the flames. Joy is seen, and wonder and sadness too. It is a sight of great beauty and a moment of solemn ritual as well. A community many thousand strong has stopped in its busy passage through the city to observe the sunset and the quiet ritual of the transfer of light from the setting sun in the west to the circle of flames that now illuminates the Woonasquatucket River.
The dark boats move on down the river and soon one hundred bonfires are dancing upon the water, filling the park with their radiance. The warm scent of cedar and gentle pine smoke perfumes the air. The gathering of people along the riverbanks is transformed by the haunting beauty of the experience. WaterFire has begun. The music will continue to change throughout the evening, inspired by every corner of the world. The flames will sparkle and enliven downtown for hours, tended by scores of fire-tenders until midnight.
Providence, a city as rich in history and soul as its name suggests, is enjoying a remarkable resurgence. The city features such an extensive and elegant tapestry of architectural heritage that the fine details and high quality of the buildings is at first almost overlooked. The pride of the original owners and the articulate craftsmanship of the city’s builders are evident at every turn—just as the creative talents of the city’s current residents can be seen in the many new businesses that now flourish in these restored buildings.
Providence is vibrant now and its current renaissance grew from its tradition of individual initiative and reverence for intellectual freedom, nurtured by the richness of the city’s built environment. In the seventies, young artists, designers and graduates of the many universities and art schools joined long-time residents and began to restore the city’s older houses and mill buildings, establishing urban businesses, opening sophisticated restaurants and building new lives in the urban core. The entire community proposed bold solutions and invested in a new future for the city. Visionary architects proposed restoring long-buried rivers, or even boldly moving them wholesale into the public thoroughfare. A dynamic preservation community grew to safeguard and restore the city’s heritage. Political, civic, and university leadership (from both the businesses and universities) emerged willing to champion and steward these innovative plans, and over twenty years a new exciting city landscape emerged.
Providence’s renaissance resulted from the hard work of hundreds of its citizens who were inspired by the city’s heritage, creative
spirit, and celebration of individual
liberty. Downtown now boasts thriving universities, a dynamic arts scene, an internationally famous art and design school, and hundreds of stunning
restaurants and shops.
WaterFire has been called “the crown jewel of the Providence renaissance” and its benevolent glow over the past fourteen years has come to symbolize a new spirit for the city. Founding artist Barnaby Evans revealed to me his inspirations and aspirations for WaterFire.
“WaterFire first flamed into life on December 31st 1993,” explains Evans, “as a one-time lighting to celebrate the tenth anniversary of ‘“First Night” in Providence and to celebrate the new river park downtown. I had watched the park develop during construction, but once it was finished I was concerned over how few people actually came to enjoy the park. I wondered if one could create a work of public art that would include the public as a significant element within the work of art. My hope was to redefine how a community thought about a particular place. Could one create an urban ritual that would gather together an entire community and inspire a broader celebration of civic unity? Judging from the astonishing response we have seen, we touched upon a deep need for community that we all feel in our fractured modern world. “
Originally intended as a one-time installation, it quickly became clear WaterFire would have longevity. Barnaby remembers, “right from the start the art installation was immensely popular and soon thereafter the community wanted it to continue as an on-going feature of the city. With the support of the city and the entire community we have now created WaterFire on over 225 occasions!”
The music presented at WaterFire changes each night and is an important element of the artwork. Evans reveals, “the music is quite deliberately eclectic, representing cultures from all across the world. It ranges from religious chant to folk songs, from jazz to classical operatic aria, to new works recently composed for WaterFire as world premiers. I try to find music that I hope the listener may not have heard before, but which they will find of interest. Often the music is quite emotional, or from sacred sources, or something that can be hard to define.”
WaterFire’s eerie opposition of fire and water speaks to the enormous symbolic resonance of these ancient elements. As the flames dance just above the river’s surface, we see, as Evans describes, “the delicate balance between the opposing forces of life and death. One can see the fires as representing the preciousness, wonder and fragility of life, poised just above the dark water below them—water that could so easily extinguish them.”
For visitors and natives alike, WaterFire is a deeply-moving and magical experience, described by witnesses as ethereal, engulfing, enchanting, romantic, inspirational, and “the best thing on this earth.” [AL]